Harvest Time Tracking Tips

Here’s a 5 minute long video from the folks at Harvest detailing some of the nuances of time tracking on the Harvest platform. Learn more about Harvest here.

I’ve been using Harvest since October, 2012, and love it! I create over 500 separate time entries every month by tracking my time religiously. I love tracking my time, and it makes me more productive. It’s like having a little boss over there telling me I should keep on task, and be productive.

I use the Mac desktop client, which you can learn about on the Harvest web site. A couple of interesting things to note about the Mac app:

  1. You can minimize it and track time exclusively from the menu bar at the top of the screen, if you want.
  2. I usually keep the window open, which gives me greater ability to start and stop timers, edit descriptions, and see the rest of my time entries for the day.
  3. Speaking of day: it gives you a whole-view of your day! So, at the end of the day, you can review all of your time entries and see exactly where your day went, and how many hours you worked.

Things I wish the Mac app did:

  • Displayed how much money I have earned that day. While it does show me the hours I have worked on that particular day, it doesn’t show me the revenue earned. That would be nice, although I can easily gather that information on the Harvest web app.
  • Remembered the last time entry description for each project category (I’ve written about this before).
  • Show me the gaps in my day. Currently, Harvest only shows me time entries, but doesn’t tell me that I missed a 15 minute block of time between two time entries.


And here is a quick video detailing their iPhone app, which works really well. I’ve used it a bunch of times to compliment the Mac App.

My favorite thing about Harvest is the desktop application for Mac. Ever since converting to using a Mac a little over two years ago I’ve longed for a native desktop application, and Harvest really delivers.

It did take me a little bit of time to get used to the differences in Harvest. I’ve emailed them with recommendations, and even posted some of them here, but I’ve gotten used to the way it works and it works great with my workflow.


Anyways, that’s my 5 minute review. I must say, if it wasn’t for the Mac app, I’d have looked at using a different system. It’s critical to my usage.

Term Life Insurance with ROP: Is it worth it and why?

My financial advisor (at ING) recommended that I get a Term with ROP life insurance policy. So, I did the math and decided to share some details with you.

From what I can tell, I could simply get term life insurance without a ROP rider and invest the difference. Assuming even marginal returns, I would easily out perform the return on premium.

More importantly, if I were to die and the policy is paid out, my wife wouldn’t get the additional I’ve paid into the policy to get the return on premium rider. But, if I were to invest that money and buy term life insurance my wife would receive a policy payout in the event of my death plus the investment would be safe.

When you put it that way, it seems like a no brainer to not go with a ROP rider.

The objections a insurance product broker will raise will fall along these lines:

  • First, there is an expression in the insurance business: “buy the term and blow the difference.” The reason is that at the end of the day while most people will say, ‘I’ll get the cheapest policy and invest or save the rest,’ yet they will see that extra $100 or so and put it to a night out on the town or, put it towards some other expense (even an emergency expense like car repairs). It is a device for forced savings for those that may lack the time or discipline to manage where the excess ‘premium’ goes.
  • Some brokers will tell you that you would need to locate a fund that returns 5% to hedge inflation AND beat out the tax implication (either now, for a ROTH, or later, for a traditional investment). They’ll say that IF inflation is 60% after 25 years, 40% of premium still beats 0% on a traditional term policy.
  • They’ll tell you that this is a guaranteed return of every dollar put in, and, BEING A RETURN OF PREMIUM, it is not taxed at the end. Premiums or original cash value on life insurance policies is never taxed; you already payed it. The excess ‘premium’ you disciplined yourself to allocate elsewhere WILL be taxed, either at income or capital gains rates.
  • They’ll also tell you they’ve done the math better than you have, saying something like: “From our analysis, given your age (the likelihood that you’ll live to collect the RoP) and moderate risk tolerance (again you have to beat 5%), the RoP fits your plan.”

Don’t listen to any of this! At the end of the day, the only thing that matters is that a ROP rider adds about 40% to the cost of term life insurance and if you were to die during the term of your policy, you don’t get a single penny back. That’s why it’s a bad deal, because you lose the extra you’ve paid in to ROP. How else would the insurance company make money on this? They have to make money somewhere.

Follow the advice of numerous investors, and even Dave Ramsey himself when he says “buy term and invest the difference.”

Is it worth it to get a GIUL Policy?

I was recently pitched on the value of a Global Indexed Universal Life Policy from ING. I came up with some math showing how it’s a really bad value in the shorter term (20-30 years). Obviously, these policies have potential for tax savings at the 70 year old mark (assuming an investor in their early 30s), however they lock you in to a single investment strategy over a very long period of time.

I was quoted $438.06 per month fee for the GIUL.

I don’t believe that I anyone can afford these GIUL policies because it forces people to invest in the same way for a 30-50 year timespan. I think that people would rather have more control over my investing choices. Personally, I’d rather be able to change my mind and invest in different sectors like real estate or mutual funds of my choosing. With a GIUL you do not have that control.

Also, it’s like a forced savings plan, and it just feels unsafe in that you would have to make that payment every month. Miss it? Risk losing everything.

Throwing money away for the first 7 to 10 years!

Since there’s basically no benefit for the first 7 to 10 years (except the life insurance death benefit which is an important benefit) I felt like the next 7 to 10 years are the ones I would like to have liquid assets (and, working on paying off house).

Contrast: I think I can get term life insurance for approximately $100/month.

I took the last 20 years of the S&P 500 and it looks like it had an annual rate of 6.24% from Dec 31, 1992 through Jan 2, 2013. Investing $338.06 per month for those 20 years would have resulted in a return of approximately $162,692.37 which is more than the 20 year net surrender value of the GIUL policy. The GIUL policy has a surrender value of $149,307 at 20 years (assuming 8.5% return).

Assuming a term life policy only cost me $100 month during that period, I would be only down $24,000. Plus, if I were to die 20 years from now, and carried a term policy at that time, I’d have the death benefit from that + my investment return as well. I am having difficulty seeing why I wouldn’t want to do that.

It’s very important to run the math on these! Instead, fund your Roth IRA to the max.

From what I can understand about a GIUL policy, the death benefit would be all a person would receive if I were to die before an older age.

In other words, if you die, you only get the death benefit, and none of that money you’ve been “investing.”

That’s just not a good investment practice. Why risk that? For less money, you can have a term life insurance policy that protects you, and then anything I invest I know I will have access to. It’s way more liquid. I’d much rather wake up 20 years from now having “invested the difference” and have a liquid nest egg than have it be tied up in an insurance policy.

Your insurance salesperson will tell you that you do have access to that capital… by explaining that you get access to that money by borrowing it from the policy, but there are some tax implications there that can’t be overlooked.

I also am having a hard time coming to terms with the idea that if I died within the first 7-10 years I am not further ahead than if I “invested the difference”.

The insurance salesperson will ask: Will you really invest the difference? The answer is yes, absolutely! I’ll invest it in life, travel, and retirement.

A few questions to ask your insurance salesperson:

Question: Is there a cap on how much I can earn on the investment? I read somewhere that dividends earned by the S&P 500 aren’t paid out, is that true? What are my approximate fees? From reading an article, I get the idea that long-term it actually pays off admirably. But, I guess I’m just not so convinced of the idea that I should limit myself to placing a sizable percentage of my income for the next 30+ years into one investment method.

As a comparison, you’ll want to fund a Roth IRA to the max ($5,500/year) every single year that you can. Never miss a year.

What if you die at an early age?

Looking at it further, if I were to die at 63 (age my mom died) after 30 years of investing in the GIUL policy I would have invested about $152,444.88 over that time. The death benefit is $500k and the Net Surrender Value is $380,194.

If we take the S&P 500 average over the last 30 years we get 8.120% return. After 30 years of investing $338.06 on a monthly basis I would end up with $507,944 which is more than the death benefit. Let’s guess over that period I would have paid out $36,000 for a 30-year term (might be low). Even taking half of the proceeds for taxes and fees, with a term-policy my spouse would be left with a term-life death benefit and the “invest the difference” investment of maybe $250,000.

The GIUL looks like a really good deal if I don’t die. And that’s the trouble. You don’t know, and if you do die, you’ll have lost a fortune.

There are a ton of videos on YouTube where insurance salespeople will pitch life insurance, and provide various examples of why term-life insurance is a bad deal. Here’s one example showing a sales person attempting to show how to handle a customers objections.

You’ll obviously want to do your own research. Personally, I came to the conclusion that the GIUL Policy is a very bad deal, and that you should always go with term life insurance. Don’t get talked into a fancy life insurance policy! It isn’t worth the risk. Seriously, don’t even consider getting anything besides a term life policy.

Note: I don’t sell life insurance, never have, never will. I’m a designer and writer, and not in that business at all. Take my advice: Don’t get a GIUL!

Dave Ramsey

I’ve been listening to Dave Ramsey’s radio show recently and have to say, I’m hooked. Sure, he’s been broadcasting since 1992, but why would I have listened then since I didn’t care about finances when I was a kid?

I know this isn’t about time tracking, but bear with me. Hours are money if you work for a living (and, who doesn’t?).

Listening to his show reminds me of talks I had with my mom when I was younger. We’d talk about everything under the sun, including financial topics. Dave Ramsey really teaches how to get out of debt, save for retirement, and pay off your house.

He has a thing he calls “Baby Steps,” and here’s the process:

Baby Step 1: $1,000 to start an Emergency Fund

Baby Step 2: Pay off all debt using the Debt Snowball

Baby Step 3: 3 to 6 months of expenses in savings

Baby Step 4: Invest 15% of household income into Roth IRAs and pre-tax retirement

Baby Step 5: College funding for children

Baby Step 6: Pay off home early

Baby Step 7: Build wealth and give!

Anyways, I wanted to share since this guy has some really terrific things to say about financial planning, and I’ve been watching it a lot recently.

One of my favorite quotes, which is almost his slogan is: “If you will live like no one else, later you can live like no one else.” ― Dave Ramsey

You can read some other quotations here.

Harvest Mac App

I’ve been using the Harvest time tracking service for about 10 months now (since October), after switching to it from a desktop application for time tracking.

I have to say, I love it!

I primarily use the Mac App, which is featured in the video above. It interfaces with the web site (which I rarely use except to add projects, clients, and run reports).

A couple of things that I would recommend they improve:

1. An option to set the start time immediately after my previous entry. Use case: I stopped my previous time entry, and accidentally let 15 minutes go by before starting my time and now I want an easy way to set the start time to be immediately after my last time entry ended. See this screenshot.

harvest-time-tracking-software

2. Show gaps in my day in a different color, and allow me to assign those to another entry. I’d like to be able to see where there are gaps in the time sheet entries from my day (either a new one, or the previous or next entries). For example, see this screenshot.

3. Have it so that it remembers my last description so I don’t have to re-type it if I want to only make a minor change. I’ve managed to figure this one out: Just click start on a previous entry, and then if you want to leave it alone, it will keep the time entry notes.

4. When entering time manually, allow me to enter the duration, not just the start/end times. Sure would be nice to be able to just enter “1 hr” rather than having to enter a specific start time and end time.